Wood processes.

Kerfing

What it is: Parallel saw cuts are made on the inside of a piece of wood so it can bend into a curve.

Step by step

1. Mark equally spaced lines where the kerf cuts are required and use a jig/guide so the spacing and depth remain consistent.
2. Secure the wood firmly and cut along each line with a tenon saw, making every cut the same depth without cutting all the way through.
3. Check that the remaining material is thin enough to flex but still strong enough to hold together.
4. Apply adhesive into the kerfs where the curve needs to become permanent, then carefully bend the wood around the required jig/former.
5. Hold or clamp the work against the jig until the adhesive has cured and the required curve is stable.

Common uses: curved furniture, panels and decorative curved forms.

Advantages: allows wood to bend without steam equipment; useful for controlled curves.

Disadvantages: kerf cuts weaken the section and may remain visible; inaccurate spacing or depth creates an uneven curve.

Quality control: use a jig to control cut depth and the final curve; keep kerf spacing/depth even and check the curve against the required shape.

Safety: secure the work, wear eye protection, use extraction/ventilation, tie back hair and keep fingers clear of the saw.

Steam bending

What it is: Steam softens the wood fibres so solid timber can be bent around a former and retain the curved shape after cooling and drying.

Step by step

1. Select suitable straight-grained timber, cut it to the required size and avoid pieces with major knots or defects that may split during bending.
2. Place the timber inside a steam box and steam it until the wood is hot, saturated and flexible enough to bend.
3. Remove the timber promptly from the steam box and position it against the prepared jig/former before it begins to cool.
4. Bend the softened timber around the former and clamp it securely so it follows the required radius.
5. Leave the timber clamped until it has cooled and dried, then release it and check for spring-back, splitting and dimensional accuracy.

Common uses: curved chair parts, furniture components and walking sticks.

Advantages: creates smooth curves from solid timber without removing material; the fibres remain continuous through the bend.

Disadvantages: time consuming; suitable timber must be selected; splitting and spring-back can occur.

Quality control: use an accurate jig/former, make sure the timber is evenly steamed and keep it clamped for sufficient time to retain the required shape.

Safety: steam and hot timber can cause burns; wear eye protection and heat-resistant gloves and take care when clamping.

Laminating

What it is: Thin veneers or strips of wood are bonded together under pressure to create strong flat or curved components.

Step by step

1. Cut the veneers/laminates accurately and prepare an appropriate former when a curved component is required.
2. Arrange the layers correctly: plywood uses alternating grain directions, while veneers for a curved lamination are arranged to follow the required curve.
3. Apply an even layer of adhesive across the bonding surfaces so there are no dry areas.
4. Place the layers into the former/press and apply even pressure across the whole component using clamps or a press.
5. Leave the adhesive to cure fully, then release the component, trim the edges and inspect for bubbles, gaps or delamination.

Common uses: curved furniture, school chairs, skateboards, plywood and laminated components.

Advantages: produces strong, repeatable curved forms; thin material can be formed into shapes difficult to produce from one solid piece.

Disadvantages: time is required for gluing and curing; poor adhesive coverage or pressure can cause air gaps and delamination.

Quality control: check the former is accurate, adhesive coverage is even, grain direction is correct and pressure is distributed evenly; inspect for bubbles and dry joints.

Safety: use ventilation and eye protection when working with adhesives; take care with cutting tools and avoid finger trapping during clamping/pressing.

Wood turning / lathe

What it is: Timber is rotated on a lathe while cutting tools remove material to produce cylindrical or symmetrical forms.

Step by step

1. Prepare the timber blank, rough-shape it if required and secure it correctly between centres, on a faceplate or in a chuck.
2. Position the tool rest close to the work at the correct height, check that the blank rotates freely and select a suitable lathe speed.
3. Start the lathe and use a gouge to remove the main waste, gradually bringing the work to a round and balanced form.
4. Use appropriate chisels to refine the profile and create the required details, checking the shape and dimensions as work progresses.
5. Sand the rotating component where appropriate, use a parting tool if required, apply the finish and remove the work safely when the lathe has stopped.

Common uses: bowls, table and chair legs, handles, spindles and banister components.

Advantages: efficient for producing smooth, accurate and symmetrical rounded forms.

Disadvantages: mainly limited to rotational forms; requires skill and removes material as waste.

Quality control: secure and balance the work correctly, use sharp tools and the correct tool-rest position/speed; use measurements or a go/no-go contour gauge for repeated profiles.

Safety: wear eye protection, use extraction/ventilation, secure hair and loose clothing and keep clear of the rotating work.

Routing

What it is: A high-speed rotating cutter removes wood to form grooves, rebates, slots, joints and decorative edge profiles.

Step by step

1. Mark the required cut or prepare the jig/template, then clamp the work securely so it cannot move.
2. Select the correct router bit for the required groove or profile and fit it securely in the router.
3. Set the routing gate/fence to control the cutter position and use the depth gauge to set the required depth of cut.
4. Run the router along the guide at a controlled and consistent speed, keeping the base stable against the work.
5. For deep cuts, make several shallower passes rather than removing the full depth at once, then inspect the dimensions and edge quality.

Common uses: furniture components, housing/lap joints, slots, grooves and decorative edge profiles.

Advantages: versatile and repeatable when used with guides, fences or templates.

Disadvantages: deep cuts may require several passes; incorrect feed speed or depth can cause tear-out.

Quality control: use the correct cutter width, fence/routing gate and depth setting; keep the cutter sharp and maintain a consistent feed speed.

Safety: secure the work, wear eye protection, use extraction, secure hair/clothing and keep hands clear of the cutter.

CNC routing / milling / laser cutting

What it is: CAD/CAM data controls a CNC router, milling machine or laser to manufacture components accurately and repeatedly.

Step by step

1. Create the design accurately in CAD, export it in the required format such as DXF and import it into the relevant CAM/machine software.
2. Check that the drawing is at the correct scale and that the toolpath/cutting lines are correct before machining.
3. Secure the material firmly to the machine bed and fit/focus the correct cutter or laser for the material and operation.
4. Set the required depth, speed and power settings, establish the datum/start point and make sure the enclosure and extraction are operating.
5. Run the program, allow the machine to complete the operation, then remove the work only when safe and inspect its dimensions and finish.

Common uses: repeated profiles, grooves, panels, joints, components and complex flat shapes.

Advantages: high accuracy and repeatability; complex shapes can be reproduced directly from digital data.

Disadvantages: incorrect CAD, datum or machine settings reproduce the same error; equipment and programming are required.

Quality control: check CAD scale, toolpath, datum, cutter/laser focus, depth/speed/power settings and that the material is securely fixed.

Safety: keep the enclosure closed and extraction on; follow machine procedures and never look directly at the laser.

Adding a screw

1. Align the two components accurately, hold them together and mark the required screw position.
2. Drill a pilot hole to guide the screw and reduce the chance of the timber splitting.
3. Drill a clearance hole through the top component where required so the screw can pull the two pieces tightly together.
4. Countersink the hole when a flush screw head is required.
5. Drive the screw into position securely without overtightening or damaging the material.

Common uses: furniture, carcasses and assemblies that may need dismantling.

Advantages: provides immediate mechanical strength and can normally be removed and replaced.

Disadvantages: the fixing may remain visible and poorly prepared holes can cause splitting or stripping.

Quality control: check screw position/depth, use the correct drill-bit sizes and keep pilot, clearance and countersunk holes accurately aligned.

Safety: clamp pieces firmly, wear eye protection when drilling and keep hands clear of rotating tools.

Felling

1. Clear loose branches and the fall path, assess the tree and plan the direction in which it should fall.
2. Cut a directional notch on the side facing the planned direction of fall.
3. Make the felling cut from the opposite side, leaving enough wood to act as a hinge.
4. Use a wedge where required to help control the direction of the fall.
5. Allow the tree to fall into the completely clear fall zone before further processing.

Quality control: use sharp tools and ensure the notch and felling cuts are made at the correct position and angle.

Safety: face and ear protection, sharp-blade precautions and a completely clear fall zone are essential.

Converting

1. Cut the felled logs into manageable and even lengths ready for conversion.
2. Remove the bark so the log can be processed cleanly and accurately.
3. Position and secure the log correctly for sawing.
4. Saw the log into boards using the required conversion method, such as through/slab sawing or quarter sawing.
5. Inspect the boards for cut accuracy and defects before seasoning.

Quality control: use sharp tools and maintain accurate alignment and depth of cut.

Safety: use ear/face protection and follow machine and blade precautions.

Natural seasoning

1. Seal or paint the board ends to slow rapid moisture loss from the end grain and reduce splitting.
2. Stack the boards horizontally with spacers between each layer so air can circulate around them.
3. Keep the stack stable, raised and covered so it is protected from direct rain while remaining ventilated.
4. Leave the timber to dry naturally over a long period, allowing moisture to escape gradually.
5. Monitor the boards for warping, splitting, fungal/insect attack and moisture content before use.

Advantages: simple and uses little external energy.

Disadvantages: very slow and less controlled; there is greater exposure to insects, fungus, splitting and warping.

Quality control: maintain a stable stack and good airflow and monitor defects and moisture content throughout drying.

Kiln seasoning

1. Stack the boards on a trolley with spacers between them so heated air can circulate evenly around every board.
2. Move the timber into the kiln, seal it and initially use controlled steam/humidity to equalise moisture and prevent the surface drying too quickly.
3. Gradually increase the temperature and reduce the humidity so moisture is removed from inside the timber at a controlled rate.
4. Continue circulating progressively drier air through the stack until the timber approaches the required moisture content.
5. Check the final moisture content and allow the boards to stabilise before removing them for use.

Advantages: much faster and more controlled than natural seasoning.

Disadvantages: requires specialist equipment and energy; incorrect temperature or humidity control can still cause defects.

Quality control: monitor kiln seal, airflow, humidity, temperature and final moisture content.

Safety: burns from hot equipment and steam; follow kiln operating and emergency procedures.